The search for snow (from Santiago to Chillan, Pucon, Bariloche, San Martin, Portillo and back!)

Hola!
It´s been awhile since I´ve posted. I´ve officially been in South America for just about 3 weeks but I have already seen A LOT of places- it definitely helped having our own mode of transportation (our trusted van, Jimi Jim).
This is only part 1 of a very long trip for me and it was an amazing start!

How would I describe van life with 3 boys for 2 weeks? hmmmm... fun, exhausting, smelly, loud, cozy, adventurous, freeing, simple, messy, organized (in our own way)... we`ll just say we are lucky we all got along so well because it´s a small space and we were in the van either driving or sleeping for I´m guessing probably 70% of the trip. By the end of the two weeks, I think we were all ready for a normal bed and no driving or riding in a car for a few days.


So a quick overview of the trip in bullet form:

• Started and ended in Santiago 9/5 to 9/21
• 9/6 Drove to Chillan (6 hrs)
• 9/7 Nevados de Chillan (ski resort) raining, most of the mountain closed, went to hot springs and ate empanadas instead of skiing. 
• 9/8 Drove to Concepcion and then north to Tome and Dichato, hung out on the beach, ate empanadas.
• 9/9 market in Chillan, drove to Pucon (6 hrs)
• 9/10 Pucon ski resort closed due to weather, hot springs (Thermas los Pozones) and empanadas instead (do you see a theme??)
• 9/11 Crossed into Argentina to check out Volcano Lanin, drove back to Pucon, Sam and I hiked to waterfall 
• 9/12 Summited and SKI (finally!) on Volcan Villarrica in Pucon, drove towards Bariloche
• 9/13 Bariloche for the day, fun in town, Jimi Jim broken into :(
• 9/14 Dealing with police, empanadas in Angostura, landed late night in San Martin at Chapelco (SNOWING HARD) 
• 9/15 POWDER DAY at Chapelco, skied hard, snowed all day!
• 9/16 POWDER DAY (round 2) bluebird! Drove through the night North in Argentina 
• 9/17 Driving!
• 9/18 CHILE'S INDEPENDENCE DAY! crossed the border back into Chile and bluebird day at Portillo! Celebrate with Pisco and wine and hot tubs!
• 9/19 Portillo, day 2! Drove to Mendoza 
• 9/20 Back in Santiago, say goodbye to Sam and Anson
• 9/21 fly out! 

Rough outline of our trip! South through Chile and back north through Argentina

I will have to upload photos in a separate post because it is not working in the hostel I am in right now in Colombia! bummer! 

Chao!

Gannett Peak: Joining High Pointers Club?

Am I inadvertently becoming a high pointer? When did this happen? 

I guess I grew up hiking 14ers and such. My first noteworthy high point would have been Mt. Elbert in Colorado when I was in middle school. 

I don't know what happened after that. My dad got the crazy idea to climb Mt. Rainier in 2007 (Washington's high point). Which we somehow succeeded in, even though I had NO idea what I was getting myself into. 

We tend to have a lot of fun together... 

Dad and me on summit of Mt. Rainier

Heading down from summit (Mt. Hood in the background)

Less than 2 years later we were in Tanzania on the summit of Kilimanjaro (high point of Africa). 

Post summit, Kili in the background

And 2 summers later we were on Mt. Hood (high point Oregon), where we met Cliff Agocs, our lead guide on that trip.  My two best friends Nick and Kayla joined on that trip... what an adventure!

 Mt. Hood summit

 The wolf pack: Nick, me, my dad, and Kayla

Two years later, my dad was back at it, planning the next trip: Gannett Peak in Wyoming. The timing worked out well for me, being in the early stages of my time off from work and visiting home so I was quick to commit to the trip (again, having no idea what I was getting myself into). 

We took over 500 pics total that week but I narrowed it down to some highlights from each day.  Here's a quick recap of the trip: 

Day 1:  Start Elkhart trailhead 

13 miles on Pole Creek Trail

9,350 ft elevation to ~10,500 ft

Up and down, passed endless lakes and streams. Fell asleep to thunder surrounding the tent.  Every 10 seconds, flashes of lighting. Works of nature I had forgot about living in Alaska.  The walls of the tent alternating flashes back and forth.  The light patter of rain every so often interrupted by a sheet of water released from the cloud above.  It was a long day, covering a lot of terrain.  We hired mules to carry our packs in which was the best decision EVER. 

Cliff, me, and my dad

Island Lake

Day 2: awoke to sunshine!

4-5 miles back to the base of Bonny Pass.  

~11,200 ft 

Set up camp just in time for another HUGE downpour.  Rain so hard I can feel the vibrations as the drops hit the tent as my toes flirt with the lime green fabric door. The other occupied tent is set up 3 feet from mine, yet I can hear nothing of what they speak over the rain.  We have yet to even see Gannett Peak.  

All the groups we've spoken to on the way out did not summit due to weather or mountain conditions beyond their abilities. It's easy to lose hope when every group we talk to has not made the summit.  Will we make it? Will the weather hold us back? Will the snow bridge be gone?  What is my ability? I haven't tested my own limits yet. 

Titcomb Basin, heading back towards Bonny Pass

Camp for nights 2&4

Day 3: Up and over Bonney Pass (~12,850) 

Loose rock scramble. Hard.  The most I've worked physically and mentally in awhile.  Over a 1,500 ft elevation gain in less than a mile. STEEP.  Have you ever took a step and felt the whole mountain move? terrifying. 

At the top of Bonney Pass we get our first view of Gannett Peak.  It's still a long ways away.  

We roped up and cross Dinwoody Glacier. As rivers on the surface of the glacier flow around us and underneath us.  The glacier was technically "dry" meaning there was no snow. We were walking on hard ice.  We get to our "spike camp" location in the early afternoon. Nothing to do but hydrate and stare at the summit in hope that the mountain would allow us our best attempt the next morning. 

Looking up at Bonney Pass...

Finally get a view of Gannett

Dinwoody Glacier ice rivers

Spike camp, looking at the prize

Day 4: SUMMIT day to 13,809 ft

Rock scramble before sunrise to the Gooseneck Glacier.  We get to the Bergschrund that had turned countless groups back.  Cliff knows his own abilities well and decides that crossing and climbing up the glacier is doable. He free solos one pitch of ice and belays my dad and I up before climbing the second pitch and setting up an ice anchor. The top was only another hour of rock hopping away as we scrambled through mixed snow and rock to the summit. 

At the summit, only partially relieved to reach the top because we still have a long day of descending in front of us down Gooseneck Glacier, back across Dinwoody Glacier and up and over Bonney Pass to our camp on night 2.  It was around a 12 hour day and we were all exhausted but happy to be safe and successful in our day. 

Crossing Gooseneck Glacier

Ice climbing near the Bergschrund

Looking back down at the Bergschrund

SUMMIT! STOKED!

We made it!

Send beer and pizza!

Dad and I down climbing the Gooseneck Glacier

Day 5: ~7 miles slow but steady hike out, passed all the lakes again. Beautiful weather.  So beautiful I decide to take a hobo bath in one of the lakes we pass.  Right after, a major storm rolls through and I am caught unexpectedly as peanut M&M sized hail pelts me as I struggle to find shelter.  15 minutes later there is no evidence of any storm at all and we are off hiking again.  

Last night on the trail, very surreal.  We find a beautiful camp spot and crash hard. 

Looking down Titcomb Basin

Looking back up towards Bonney Pass

Shower time? yes please,

Amazing terrain

HAIL!!!

Day 6: ~11 miles 

All the way back to the parking lot and the car and technology and civilization.  Bittersweet knowing the trip is over. Relieved to be off my feet and done. Sad to leave the security and comfort of my solo tent.  The real world awaits and I am maybe not quite ready to leave the back country, 

There is something about being out in the wilderness. Everything is simplified. Priorities are boiled down to food, water, and finding shelter.  Basic human needs. Things we forget about in the noisy world we live in.  Physical exhaustion dominates.  Emotional and mental re-hydration.  It's a beautiful place. 

Cannot thank my climbing partners enough! Mr. Cliff for keeping us safe and my dad for organizing and always having a positive attitude.  Can't wait for the next trip with you guys! 

Til then, this high pointer is heading SOUTH!

Here's to Plan B!

In Alaska, there is always a Plan B and usually a Plan C and D.  Planning here in the summer is based mainly on the weather, and in the winter, the snow stability.  It can also be influenced by what others are stoked about and even some days, a hangover or the need to sleep will shut down or postpone all plans.  It's common to talk about doing one thing on Monday and by Friday your plan has morphed 3-4 times with still no final destination determined until you wake in the morning.

This is similar in traveling.  When I travel, I try my best not to make plans.  Who knows who you'll meet along the way or what side adventures you may embark on.  Leaving options open is half the fun of it.  Obviously, ideas can shape an outline of a trip but for me it's freeing, knowing that I can make decisions on the fly about each and every day. I also know that more often than not, things don't go as planned.  Therefore, it's good to always have a backup or be quick to accept it when things change.  That being said, my initial travel plans have completely changed.  Last week I got news that my travel buddy, Logan, needed to postpone our trip by 3-4 weeks. Damn grad school! At first, I thought my only options were to stay in Colorado or to head to Colombia by myself. Neither of these options I liked.

It turns out that three of my guy friends (Sam, Anson, and Nate) from Alaska are planning to head to Chile/Argentina to ski for 3 weeks the exact day I was planning to head to Colombia.  Until this point, I had thought it was a shame we would all be in South America at the same time but completely miss each other.  I can't even count how many times people asked if I was bringing my skis. I, disappointedly, would shake my head and explain, "No, not this time. Someday, though."  With Logan's change in plans, I started looking into joining Sam, Nate, and Anson for a few weeks in September and then heading to Colombia.  Switching my flights and figuring out how to make it work was very easy.  I could use Alaska air miles to get from Denver to Santiago, and then fly Santiago to Cartagena, Colombia at the end of September.  This would work better with Logan's timing and I would be able to travel with my best friend, Miss Katy White, in Colombia on her way back from the Galapagos.  PERFECT!

I accepted very quickly that a few weeks of skiing would add a large cost to my overall trip, but when else do you have 3 good friends offering you a spot on their ski trip to South America (I'm gonna say never...)
So here's to going with the flow and accepting a plan B (a VERY awesome plan B).

CHEERS!
-LP

Sam and I at Portage Glacier this spring 

Anson and Sam, my ski buddies and soon to be South America travel companions! 

CANNOT WAIT TO SEE THIS GIRL!!! (Katy, on the right, in the mullet... and yes, I'm dressed as a banana)

déjà vu in the most peculiar sense

It’s the strangest form of déjà vu. Not the kind where you’ve been there before physically, but the kind where you’ve been there before mentally and emotionally. The two situations were thousands of miles apart but the similarities striking.  

The first: I had just graduated college, May 2009.  I had given myself 3 days to drive from Spokane to Colorado and get on a plane to Africa for the summer.  Of course, I had overbooked myself.  I was alone, in the old Jeep, Sparky, leaving one life to start the next.  My car was packed to the roof with everything I owned. I was heading home. Through my speakers played Swahili lessons in prep for the next few months I would spend in Kenya.  Alone, I spoke out loud, not ashamed to miss pronounce or mess up.  Responding and repeating.  "Habari gani?" My mind racing with thoughts of college, everything I needed to do in the next 3 days, how much gas I had left. "Nzuri, asante." Could I make it to Sheridan? I was anxious. So anxious.  Leaving behind the entire life that I knew and going back home to Boulder to start grad school the next fall.  Was I ready? What was I doing? "Nafahamu kiswahili kidogo." Why did I feel so unsettled? Ugh, I'm tired. Can I make it to the next town? "Mimi ni mwamerica." I need to pee. "Na wewe?"

The second: Monday August 5th, 2013.  It was my first official day of unemployment in my adult life.  I had just quit my job and enjoyed a celebratory weekend filled with music and friends at Salmonstock Music Festival in Ninilchik, Alaska.  I was driving home, back to Anchorage.  My Xterra packed to the roof with a weekend's worth of camp gear, coolers, hoola hoops, and festival wear.  Through my speakers came Spanish lessons in preparation for the next few months I would spend in South America.  Loud, windows down.  Spitting cherry seeds out as I responded to the Spanish speakers questions. "Son las siete y cuarto."  My mind felt clear but that unsettled feeling was still there. I only have a quarter tank.  Can I make it to Soldotna? "Tienes tiempo a comer?" I wonder where my sleeping pad is. Will I need it on my trip? "Tengo viente minutos." Should I try to see him before I leave? Do I want to?  "Que hora es?" Will I be able to sell my car? Holy shit, my car is a mess! My mind overloaded with a to-do list a thousand feet long.  Everything that needed to get done to make a smooth transition from a life in Anchorage to a life on the move.  Prepping for a climbing trip and months living out of a backpack.  "Que queires beber?" Cancel insurance.  Buy plane tickets.  "Me gusta la cerveza." Well ain't that the truth!? 

It was the feeling of being alone.  In every sense.  The feeling of complete control and complete and utter uncertainty.  The anxiety that encompasses your entire being and that can't be explained.  I should feel relieved right?  Months of tests and studying were over; reports and deadlines all gone, put to rest.  Complete freedom.  The feeling of escaping a life you love and maybe aren't ready to leave.  But also, knowing you need to get away.  It's time.  The idea that you may be able to get over someone if you could just. drive. far. enough...  The excitement and fear of the unknown and all that would happen in the coming weeks.  That feeling that you need everything to just   s   l   o   w     d   o   w  n,  but at the same time you can't wait for it to start.  

This is where I am.  This is where I have been.  It feels all too similar.  It's an awkwardly comfortable place for me.  And I'm not trying to fight it.  

These days of transition will slip by.  Everything that needs to get done, will get done.  

And I will start the next chapter.  

Twendi! 

Vamos! 

2 years in Alaska!

It was 2 years ago today (JULY 26th!- wow, time flies!) that I crossed the border into Alaska, and ohhh my, has it been a journey!  I moved up here with only what I could fit in my old jeep, Sparky.  I had no where to live.  I only knew one person.  I, thankfully, had a job lined up with an awesome company (CRW Engineering Group) but really nothing else.  The first 6 months were extremely difficult.  Not only was I immensely home sick but I also managed to dislocate my elbow and shatter my arm, leaving me pretty much inactive for 2-4 months.  My surgeon told me no skiing for the season.  Well we ALL know that didn't happen!  Alaska had record snowfall my first winter up here and I had an amazing year skiing, bum elbow and all!
Reflecting back on my time here, I can say that moving to Alaska was one of the best decisions I've made. It has truly been the adventure I was looking for.  I have met friends that I now consider family and I am so grateful for them in my life.  Alaska feels like home.  I especially am thankful for my wonderful living situation.  My roommates are some of my best friends, there's always beer in the fridge, food in the garden (or in the oven), and someone around to chat with.
I felt that I should do a quick recap on my two years here.  I narrowed it down to 14 pictures in somewhat chronological order.  I think these pictures give an overall view of all the fun and crazy things I've done since I've been here. Again, this is only a QUICK peak into my life but I feel like they do capture a lot and there's a good story with each of them.

McCarthy, Alaska for labor day weekend.  Cait (far right) and I moved to Alaska together in the summer of 2011.  We decided to drive out to McCarthy for the long weekend and randomly met these two amazing women (Meaghan-left and Irene-right) at the camp site.  They are, to this day, still two of my best friends here and I honestly don't know what I would do without these three ladies in my life. Who knew all you needed to say to make some life long friends was "Hey, do you guys want a some tequila?"

So this happened.... dislocated elbow & shattered radius left me pretty immobile for awhile when I first moved here. I spent almost 5 months in physical therapy trying to strengthen my elbow and surrounding ligaments and muscles in what was easily the most traumatic injury I've ever had.  Being injured is never easy, especially when you are used to being so active on a daily basis.  2 years later, I have limited range of motion (still working on it!) and I still feel it every day.  I haven't let it slow me down though; I'm still skiing, playing contact sports and even rock climbing.  Oh and thank god, three of my best friends are physical therapists up here (Mike, Robin, and Tarah)! 

Challenge Alaska is an adaptive ski and snowboard school at Alyeska Resort in Girdwood.  I have spent a lot of time over the last 2 winters teaching ski lessons here to people of all ages with mental and/or physical disabilities.  If you've ever worked at Challenge or even walked through the building, you know the strength of the community that surrounds this program.  We are truly a family with a passion to ski, play outside, and share the joys of the snow with everyone.  Every lesson at Challenge is different but they all share the same goal: to have fun.  I have met some amazing skiers/snowboarders and even better friends through this program and I cannot wait for what next year brings.  The picture above is from an instructor clinic day at the beginning of the season last year (I am in the middle, red jacket, kneeling down).

In April of 2012, my good friend and bad ass skier, Mike Records, came to visit for a few weeks to shred some spring powder with his friend Nick.  We got a few days of local back country skiing in, followed by 4 days at Thompson Pass for Tailgate Alaska.  This photo is from a day at Hatchers Pass, just north of Anchorage.  We came up to this rock outcropping just when 2 grizzlies popped out.  They were slow moving but I'm sure very hungry.  Needless to say we avoided this area for the rest of the day.  Also was the day I realized that avalanches were not my only concern in the back country... haha. Oh, Alaska.

When I was recovering from my injury, I got a 6 month pass to the Alaska Rock Gym and started climbing almost every day after work.  I got more into climbing after dislocating my elbow than I ever was before.  I started climbing outside in Alaska last summer.  The rock here isn't great, but the scenery is always beautiful and the long days make it easy to get a lot of climbing in.  This photo is from a backpacking/climbing trip we took up by Eagle River.  Right to left: Alyse, Buddy the dog, Eugene, me, and Shey, photo by Seth.  The rock in the background is where we climbed! 

Seward, Alaska... I venture to Seward quite often in the summers.  It's a beautiful place located right on Resurrection Bay and surrounded by mountains and glaciers.  It's one of my favorite places in Alaska. This is a photo of Irene, me, and Becca at our camp spot on the beach during one of our Seward weekends.  Connor, Nate, Becca and I hiked up to Exit Glacier and the Harding Ice Field that day.  Over 30 glaciers flow into the Harding Ice Field that covers over 700 square miles.  The photo below shows Nate, Connor, Becca and I trail running down the trail with the Harding Ice Field in the background. 

This photo was taken Christmas 2012 back in Boulder.  One of the most important things about my 2 years in Alaska is that even though I'm thousands of miles away, I still get home to see my family pretty often.  I have been able to fly home 6 times in the last few years for holidays and weddings.  I know I wouldn't be where I am today without the endless support and love from my family.  There really is no place like home. 

Speaking of family! Here's part of my Alaskan family.  In March of this year, I rented the CPG hut in Girdwood.  It's a 4.5 mile skin to the hut from the resort.  We skinned into the hut at night towing sleds full of gear, beer, and food.  Becca and I got a few hour head start but ended up getting extremely lost in the pitch black of night (and a blizzard).  We were rescued by Brian and Mike and then two beers left in the trail by Tarah and Max revived us back to life! haha! Seven people and four dogs made for a cozy cabin.  We got some great powder turns in, as well as some naked night skiing... of course.
This was just one of the amazing hut trips I got to do this year.  There are cabins all over Alaska that are available for use year round for a very small cost (sometimes free).  I am excited to see where we end up playing next winter! 

Oosik Classic Ski Race! March 16, 2013.  Irene and I rented a room and had a girls weekend in Talkeetna for the ski race.  This was my first classic cross country ski race ever (and only the 3rd time ever on classic skis).  The race was on the Susitna River and through the wilderness around Talkeetna.  The race was definitely a challenge.  I realized that maybe it was not the best idea to start my cross country ski racing career with a 25 kilometer race... haha.  I was definitely hurting afterwards. The group of girls in this photo stuck together the whole race and crossed the finish line dead last (but proud)! Our favorite part, of course, being the whiskey/bacon station at kilometer 15, which we stayed at for more than an hour (haha... maybe why we were last?) The day ended with an after race party with live music at the hanger.  Robin and I also poached a mobile hot tub (on the back of a trailer) and watched the northern lights dance across the sky.  Photo from left to right: Moriah, Diane, Becca, Irene, Brianne, Jess, and Robin.  Photo by: ME :) Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter, and Denali in the background.

Slush Cup at Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, April 2013.  This is the end of season party at Alyeska.  This photo is mainly a shout out to my current roommates (Annie, Diane, and Alex).  My overall happiness in life doubled when I moved into the Sunflower house.  I am so sad to be giving up my room there but I also know that I will always be welcome home (whether gear room or couch- ha!).  Love you guys! 

Memorial Day weekend 2013.  Sadie Cove across Kachemak Bay from Homer, Alaska.  We got a group of >20 people out to a yurt in Sadie Cove for a weekend of skiing, hiking, fishing, and sea kayaking.  Five of us (3 on skis and 2 on foot) hiked to the top of the mountain.  After a quick summit nap and beer, Max, Sam, and I decided that if there was going to be a naked ski day, this was the day!  So we stripped down and skied out completely nude.  I also took the best fall of my entire season and double ejected while naked. ha!  This photo just captures so much about Alaska:  1) the fact that you can swim in the ocean and ski an epic line all in the same day  2) how after dealing with an Alaskan winter, ~50 degrees is warm enough to be comfortable skiing naked  3) how crazy/adventurous/silly my friends are!
Photo left to right: Sam, me, Max (dogs, Nuna and Shiner) Photo by: Jess 

Hope, Alaska. July, 2013. Becca, Sam, Claire, and I did the Twin Lakes hike outside of Hope.  We summited the peak in the background, slid down a snow field to the left, and ended the day with a "hobo shower" in the lake.  This photo is one of many that captures this summer we've been having here.  The weather has been INCREDIBLE and every weekend has been full of amazing adventures.  I feel so lucky to live here!!!!  Photo: Becca (left), Claire (right). Photo by: ME.  

Again, this is only a snapshot of the Alaska life, but I think these photos capture a lot of what I've been doing up here in my free time.  Hope you enjoyed! IT'S BEEN A GOOD TWO YEARS!!!!!!!!!  Excited for the next two! :)

A Weekend Full of HOPE. Twin Lakes Trail, Hope, AK

“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread." - Edward Abbey

The summer keeps getting better and better! I knew it would be difficult to top my birthday weekend in Talkeetna, but I would say we did a pretty good job of that this weekend.  Two great nights of live music by a favorite local band, the Denali Cooks, at one of my favorite Alaskan bars, the Seaview.  AMAZING weather. Great company. Hiking, sun, skinny dipping, bonfires, camping, fishing, and inevitably someone losing their car keys in the process of all of this.  I am still so blown away to be living in such a beautiful place.  Alaska, you really have stolen my heart.

One of my favorite things about small town Alaska is that barely anything is regulated.  There is a campground in Hope, there are "technically" some camp spots and fees, but really... no one cares.  Or maybe it's just that no one minds?  Park before the dirt ends for there are no lines.  Camp where gravity first throws your tent.  Yep, that looks good... and isn't it nice not to worry about rules?  Alaska... a land where the only things to worry about are bears and the tide (not intended to be an understatement, but you get my point). haha :)

Saturday was one of the better hikes I've done this summer.  It was a last minute decision to change our plans of hiking Point Hope to hiking Twin Lakes. We had only heard about this hike through word of mouth. Luckily, the local coffee cart gal in Hope knew which way to point us.

Drive up Palmer Creek Road

Start to a beautiful day! 

Not too shabby

One of my favorites...  hydration is key! 

The first small pond, beautiful colors!

Heading up to the lakes

Sam, looking back at the first pond

Still some snow melting out in the stream bed

Typical Saucy Squirrel action... 

Almost to the first Lake

At the first lake

Stunning!! Becca and Claire by the first lake
the peak in the background is the one we hiked to

Hiking above the lakes

Bex! 

Twin lakes! So beautiful. 

Hiking up to the peak!

Someone's skied this recently... 

Almost to the top, scouting potential ski zone for next season

Scramble to the top (photo: Bex)

Sam, being Sam... 

Summit nap time (photo: Bex)

Enjoying the view (photo: Bex)

Snow field we slid down :)  (photo: Bex)

Alaska shower time (photo: Bex)

Back in Hope

The best bar in Hope (the only bar in Hope)

Dinner time... mac & cheese, accidentally dumped on the ground

Denali Cooks show!
"We having so fun"

love. 

Adam, the dog whisperer! 

Sunday morning hungover coffee and bagels

Playing in the packraft, looking up at Tenderfoot

Becca getting a mud facial from Sam, haha

Another great adventure!  I have exactly one month left in Alaska before I start on my journey South. I am trying to take advantage of every day here. I can't believe how time has flown since I moved here.  I have to give thanks to everyone I've met up here and the personal journey I've taken in the last two years.

Life is GOOD!!!